Friday, November 14, 2008

Beijing: Summer Palace

We spent all day Monday wandering through the extensive grounds of the Summer Palace, a quiet country refuge for the imperial court laid out in the late 1700s and extended and rebuilt twice (in the 1860s and after 1902) by the Empress Dowager Cixi, one of the most powerful and enigmatic women in Chinese history. (She effectively deposed both her son and her nephew in order to rule as regent for half a century. Her personal excesses and political blunders led to the demise of the last imperial dynasty in 1912). The weather was sunny and warm -- perfect for a stroll and a picnic.

The Summer Palace consists of a large lake to the south and a steep hill to the north. The lake has numerous pavilions, artificial islands, charming bridges and causeways. The hill is covered with shady tree-lined walkways, palaces, temples, gardens, and living quarters for the imperial court. The names of these cool, peaceful spots are a delight in themselves: Hall of Jade Ripples (where Cixi imprisoned the emperor), Hall of Benevolence and Longevity, Garden of Virtue and Harmony, the Cloud Dispelling Gate, Hall of Good Sight, Hall of Heralding Spring, Pavillion of Forgotten Desires and Accompanying Clouds, Pavillion with Fish and Algae, Hall for Listening to Orioles, Tower of the Fragrance of Buddha, etc.

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